Rats make excellent pets! They are clean, extremely smart, and very social toward humans, making them one of the best pocket pets out there. Of course, they are often greatly misunderstood -- many people continue to associate them with the kind of rats you'd find in a city sewer. However, domesticated rats are as different from wild rats as Labrador retrievers are from wolves! Jack Hanna says that rats are the nearest thing to a dog you'll find in a small mammal! Times are changing, and rats are becoming very popular as household pets.
Rats Need Company!!! Rats should always be kept as pets in same-sex groups of two or more, for many reasons. In the wild, rats live in colonies, and naturally need and enjoy the company of other rats. They groom each other, sleep together and play together. No amount of human attention can replace the company of another rat. Therefore, pet rats are better off with at least one other for companionship. It is also believed that pet rats fare better emotionally when kept in groups, which not only keeps them happy, but healthy, too! Single rats often seem to be more easily stressed and can be more prone to disease. Some rats can even develop behavioral problems or neurotic tendencies when kept alone. Since caring for two rats is no more difficult than caring for one, and the extra cost is nominal compared to the benefits of having two together, there really is no reason not to get two or more. As long as you give them attention
individually, they will each bond with you -- in fact, many people believe that keeping two rats actually helps them bond to you more easily.
Rats Need Human Contact!!! Rats are very social animals, and are most easily socialized with humans when they are young. Therefore, it is important in their social development to have contact with humans from almost the moment they are born. Not only should breeders handle or interact with the rats at least once a day, they should also allow you to have direct contact when visiting. In many cases, the best way to choose a pet rat is to allow the rat to pick you! The most social rats make the best pets of all. Just be sure that your hands are clean!!! Most human illnesses are not transmitted to rats (strep throat is one exception), but it's better to be safe than sorry. If you are ill, avoid the breeder until you are feeling better.
Rats Need To Be handled with CARE!!!
When picking a rat up, you should never grab him or her by the tail. This is very uncomfortable to them, makes them feel unsafe, and does not help in their socialization. Tails have also been known to break off or lose skin with improper handling. Skin that has come off the tail cannot be reattached, nor will the tail grow back. Amputation of the tail tip is often required. You should always pick up a rat around its middle, and then support their feet with your other hand or your body. This makes them feel very secure, and reduces the chance of someone dropping them if they squirm. Rats that are regularly lifted by their tails tend to harbor a distrust of humans, and may not make the best pets.
Rats Need to have room and be properly housed!!!
The environment pet rats live in is very important. Rats have a few special needs compared to some other pocket pets, such as hamsters or gerbils, but they are easily accommodated with a little knowledge and common sense.
CAGES
A hamster cage is NOT an acceptable home for a rat. Such habitats are far too small and offer poor ventilation. Glass aquariums are acceptable, but do not offer the same ventilation as a wire cage, so must be cleaned more often to avoid harmful ammonia buildup. A cage should offer a bare minimum of 2 cubic feet for one to two rats -- about the equivalent of a 20-gallon long aquarium, but more room is always better. I prefer 2 cubic feet per rat. I always recommend that people purchase or construct the largest cage they can. Wire cages (such as rabbit and ferret cages) are by far preferred. They offer superior ventilation, plenty of climbing opportunities, and better flexibility for modification and "decorating." Space between wires should be between 1/2" x 1/2" (for babies) and 1" x 2" for adults. Some good cage manufacturers include:
• Fern Cage
Manufacturing Company
11830 Wakeman Avenue
Santa Fe Springs, CA
90670
Tel 562.696.5969, Fax 562.696.0905
www.ferncage.com
• Corner Creek
Acres
1603 S. Milner
Ottumwa, IA 52501
Tel 515.684.7122, Fax
515.684.0726
cornercreek.com
• Martin's
Cages
4554 Marietta Avenue
Columbia, PA 17512
Tel 888.451.2234
www.martinscages.com
• KW
Cages
Tel 800.447.CAGE
• The Ferret
Store
www.ferretstore.com
BEDDING
It has been found that both cedar and pine shavings are NOT acceptable as bedding for rats, mice and other pocket pets. Studies have shown that exposure to the phenols in cedar and pine (the chemical that makes them smell nice) can cause respiratory difficulty, as well as liver and kidney damage. There is no reason to use soft wood shavings as bedding. Some alternatives are listed below.
***Keep in mind, also, that clumping and clay-based kitty litters are not advised. Clay-based litters are very dusty, and can cause problems with the rat's delicate respiratory system. Clumping litters can cause problems if ingested. It's important to remember that cats only visit their litter box to do their business. Rats live in their litter. Paper-based cat litters are fine, and a few of them are included in the list below.
• Care
Fresh
reclaimed paper pulp product
www.carefresh.ca
800.242.2287
Distributor
List: www.carefresh.ca/order/distrib.html
• Bio-Flush
paper-based, contains baking soda
Ampro Industries, Inc.
800.482.3130
• Housekeeper's Eco-Bedding
paper-based, like crinkled paper bags;
expands
Ranpak Corp.
www.ranpak.com
800.RANPAK.7
• Aspen shavings or pellets
Available from many sources
• Critter Country
grass fiber pellets
Moutain Meadows Pet
www.mtnmeadowspet.com
800.631.1936
• Yesterday's News
recycled paper product
Canbrands International Ltd
www.yesterdaysnews.com
800.267.5287
• EZ-FLUSH
paper-based, has odor control compound
XORB Corporation
800.359.6101
• Cell Sorb Plus
paper-based
Fangman Specialties
www.cell-sorb-plus.com
513.752.4500
• Sani-Chips
heat-treated aspen pellets
PJ Murphy Forest Products
www.pjmurphy.net
800.631.1936
CLEANING
Cages should be cleaned at least once a week in a home setting. Depending on the size of the cage, ventilation, and number of rats, cages may need to be cleaned more or less frequently. A rat cage should never smell, as they are very clean animals. If the cage smells, it is because it is long overdue for cleaning. Rat urine creates ammonia fumes, so a dirty cage leads to an unhealthy build up of ammonia. Though cages can be cleaned with a commercial pet cage cleaner, sometimes the fumes from these types of products can cause respiratory problems. It is recommended to clean the cage with warm water and a mild soap, rinsing thoroughly. A very diluted bleach solution is also acceptable. Household cleaners, such as Windex, Fantastik, etc., should never be used due to harmful fumes.
Rats need to be stimulated mentally!!!
as they are very intelligent creatures. Toys can range from bird toys to something as simple as cardboard tubes. My rats enjoy PVC tubes, purchased at a hardware/ home improvement store for about $3.00 each. Ferret litter pans and terra cotta or plastic flower pots can make great sleeping spots. I have also made hammocks out of wood dowels and scrap fabric, and tossed empty tissue boxes into the cage. Some rats enjoy exercise wheels, but usually only the females, and only if they have been exposed to a wheel at a young age. I personally have yet to get one of my boys to use a wheel, but all rats are different. Of course, since a rat is bigger than a mouse, hamster or gerbil, they need a bigger wheel.
Rats need GOOD Nutrition
Hamster and gerbil mixes, rabbit food and cat food are NOT acceptable as rat food. Hamster mixes do not contain complete nutrition, and often feature fatty seeds and nuts. Rabbit feed is made from alfalfa, which rats cannot digest. Cat food contains far too much protein, which will cause coat problems, especially for
males. The best nutrition for rats is in the form of a Lab Block. It has all of the daily requirements a rat needs. . Be sure to choose a block that does not have corn as its first ingredient; soy- or wheat-based blocks are preferred. I have been using Owxbow's Rodent Maintenance Formula lately, which seems to go over very well -- much better than most lab blocks. It contains no corn, and has the same protein content of Nutro Natural Choice Lite.
WATER
Rats should have access to fresh water at all times, supplied in a water bottle. A bowl can be tipped and soiled by urine, feces and bedding, so a hanging, on-demand water bottle works best. The water should be refreshed every few days, and the bottle should be cleaned well each time the cage is cleaned. In
the summer, two or more bottles should be maintained, if possible. Store unused, full bottles in the refrigerator, and switch them throughout the day. Rats can only release excess body heat through their tails, so they can become overheated fairly quickly. If a rat does happen to go into heatstroke, he can be given an electrolyte drink like Pedialyte to help recover. You can also immerse him in lukewarm water, and promptly dry him with a towel.
Health
Concerns
I don't have enough room to cover every medical condition rats can face, but there are two major concerns that one should watch for -- respiratory problems and parasites. I'm going to cover a few of the major symptoms to look out for, and make suggestions of what you can do. I am not a vet or an expert on rat health care, but I have had first-hand experience with these conditions, and have conversed with my veterinarian. A good source for more in-depth information about rat health is the book Rat Health Care.. As always, consult a veterinarian in all medical matters when it comes to your pets.
RESPIRATORY PROBLEMS
The most common health problems in rats are often respiratory in nature. All pet rats have the bacteria mycoplasma pulmonis in their system, though it can remain dormant and show no symptoms. Active myco can be triggered by environment (cedar or pine bedding, drafts, air fresheners, cigarette smoke, etc.) and secondary bacterial or viral infections (SDA). If left untreated, these secondary infections can lead to pneumonia and, ultimately, death. The most obvious symptoms of most respiratory illnesses (whether viral or bacterial) include:
• Wheezing or noises while breathing
• Excessive sneezing
• Porphyrin staining (red discharge) around nose and eyes
Advanced symptoms may include:
• Labored breathing or gasping
• Lethargy
• Drop in body temperature
• Disinterest in food or water
• Loss of coordination
• Noticeable weight loss
If your rat exhibits any of these symptoms, it should be treated with antibiotics
from a vet. Observe the other animals in the cage for similar symptoms --
secondary infections are often contagious. It is often advisable to treat all
of your rats at the same time.
I HOPE THIS INFO HELPS YOU HAVE A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF RATS!! BUT PLEASE LOOK AT THE FOLLOWING SITES FOR MORE INFO...
http://www.afrma.org/rminfo1.htm
http://www.discover-pet-rats.com/
http://www.fancy-rats.co.uk/information/guides.php?subject=trainingyourrats
http://ratguide.com/